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Ancient Cities and Ruins

PERGAMON
Bergama situates at the north of Bakırçay, where also the ancient town of Pergamon was established on a hilly area. The town is built in a area of 88.650 hectare and 105 km. from İzmir city centre, 30 km. inland. The economy depends on agriculture and main products are tobacco, olive, grape and cotton. There are rich mineral mines in the area as well as gold mines. The region is also very rich in natural water sources and there are several thermal centres.
HISTORY OF PERGAMON
After the death of Alexander the Great (323 B.C), Lysimachos, one of Alexander’s generals, chose Pergamon as the depository for his vast wealth, placing here 9,000 talents of gold under the guardianship of his lieutenant, Philetairos (283-263 B.C). Upon Lysimachos’s death, Philetairos retained this money for himself and with it founded the Pergamon monarchy which lasted 150 years. Pergamon later became the capital of a flourishing Hellenistic kingdom and one of the principal centers of Hellenistic civilisation. Philetariros extended his kingdom as far as the shores of The Marmara Sea. After Philetairos his nephew Eumenes I (263-241 BC) came into the power. He managed to preserve these frontiers by paying tribute to the Galatians. Attalos I (241-197 BC), the son of Eumenes I, defeated the Galatians in battle and began to use the title of King. Attalos was deeply interested in art and culture. The city was adorned with architectural splendours during his reign. Eumenes II( 197-159 B.C.) raised the Kingdom of Pergamon to its rank of one of the strongest states of Hellenistic times, by means of the close times he established with Rome. He also brought the city to the climax of its cultural prominence.
When Eumenes II died his brother Attalos II (159-138 B.C.) ruled the kingdom. The Kingdom die with AttalosIII ( 159-138 B.C.) and he bequeathed (133 BC) his domains to the Roman Empire. Pergamon continued to be a very important center during the Roman period. Pergamon became the center of a diocese in the Christian era, and one of the Seven Churches of the Apocalypse mentioned in Bible was located here. In Byzantine times, the city was surrounded by a new wall, constructed from the the remains of stone blocks, statues etc. dating from the Hellenistic and Roman eras. The city went through the Arab and finally the Turkish period in the 14th century.
Pergamon attained a high culture in the Hellenistic era, boasting an outstanding library that rivalled in importance that of Alexandria, a famous school of sculpture and excellent public buildings and monuments of which the Zeus Altar is the best example.
Archaeological Evidence
A young German engineer Carl Humann, who was engaged in building a road in Bergama in 1875 was told that a great quantity of loose stone was available among the ruins at the top of the hill behind the city. That which started as the need for road construction resulted in Humann’s archaeological studies and the uncovering of many beautiful pieces including the Zeus Altar and Gateway to the Sanctuary of Athena which were subsequently taken to the Pergamon Museum in Berlin.
Acropolis
The function of the acropolis in Pergamon was never the same as the function of the acropolis in Athens. In Athens everything was focused on religion, whereas in Pergamon it was on social and cultural activities, or in other words, daily life. As a result of this contrast, major buildings in Pergamon were reserved for public use in daily life. Even in the temples, religion was of secondary importance. Buildings had large areas for the public where they could meet, walk or join in social affairs. Pergamon was the first city to react against functional urbanism of Hippodamus preferring ornamental urbanism. Pergamenes agreed that functionalism was necessary, but that aesthetics were to be given even more consideration. The buildings of the Acropolis were designed to be seen from below and to impress those viewing the city from the valley.
Except for the Trajan Temple all the buildings were built in the Hellenistic period during which constructions were made of andesite and very rarely in marble.
Heroon
In general, Heroon is a shrine dedicated to a deified hero. The Heroon in the Acropolis of Pergamon was the imperial cult or the shrine in which kings of Pergamon, especially Attalos I and Eumenes II, were worshipped.
It was a peristyle building made of andesite from the Hellenistic period.
The Sanctuary of Athena
It was entered through a propylon which was built by Eumenes II. As written in its inscription, it was dedicated to victory-bringing Athena by King Eumenes. The entrance opens into a courtyard surrounded by three stoas of the Doric order. This also dates from the same period. At the corner near the theater was the Athena Temple in Doric order which was built earlier, in the 3C BC. It was built of andesite and stood on a crepidoma with two steps.
The Library of Pergamon
The library built by Eumenes II, was the second of the three famous ancient libraries. It contained 200,000 volumes. A century later Mark Antony gave them to Cleopatra as a wedding present to be added to the collection of the library in Alexandria. The library building was next to the north stoa of the Athena Sanctuary. Most probably, the second floor of the stoa was at the same level with the first floor of the library. It had a large reading hall with many shelves all around, leaving an empty space between walls and shelves for the circulation of air to prevent humidity. Manuscripts were written on parchment then rolled or folded and put on shelves.
When the Egyptians prohibited the export of papyrus, the King of Pergamon ordered that a new material be found. The new discovery was "parchment", a fine material from sheep or goat skin, highly polished with pumice stone and slit into sheets. Therefore the name of Pergamon has been perpetuated and seen as synonymous with the word "parchment".
The Temple of Trajan
It was a 2C AD temple in Corinthian order, dedicated to Trajan, built by his successor Hadrian. Both emperors were worshipped there. The temple was built of marble, probably on the site of a previous Hellenistic building. Before the construction, the area was levelled off by using a successful arched and vaulted substructure. The temple is flanked by stoas on three sides, the one at the back being higher than the others. It was in Corinthian order to have a peripteros plan, with 9 by 6 columns.
The Theatre
It is said that the Theater in the acropolis of Pergamon is the steepest raked Hellenistic theater in the world. The cavea of the theater which consists of 80 rows of seats is divided into three sections by two diazomas. The capacity was 10,000 people. The construction material is andesite. Because it was originally a Hellenistic theater, there was not a permanent stage building and people sitting on the cavea could see outside and beyond the playing area. In the Hellenistic period, performances were held in a festive atmosphere and took a long time. People spent a lot of time in the theater, usually the minimum of a full day. Therefore, they never wanted to block their view of outside and the stage building, being made of wood, was portable. Square holes at the back of the orchestra were for the portable stage building. The theater was also used during the Roman period with some alterations.
The Zeus Altar
The finest altar ever built can be accepted as the Zeus Altar at Pergamon, of about 180 BC, which stands in its own precinct but, most unusually, without a temple. The altar, a marble offering-table, stood on an enormous stone plinth, which also supported the double colonnade of Ionic columns enclosing it on three sides. On the fourth side it was approached by a fine stairway, nearly 20 m / 65 ft wide.
Much of the structure and almost all of the friezes are now in Berlin. Decorated with vigorous friezes of life-size figures depicting a battle between gods and giants, its contemporary context is probably King Eumenes II’s celebration of his recent victories over the Gauls in Pontus and Bithynia. If this is so, then the context incorporates within its apparently straightforward mythology the King’s assertion of his own triumphant role as the defender of traditions against barbarians.
Kızıl Avlu (The Red Court)
This building was temple dedicated to Egyptian gods and goddesses , built in the 2nd century A.D. from the time of the Emperor Hadrian. In the Byzantine period it was converted into a basilica which was dedicated to St.John. It was one of the seven churches of apocalypse. It was damaged by Arabs in the 8th century A.D. The building is 60x26 metres and its court extends 260x110 metres. Because of the red brick, used to construct the building, it is called Red Court. There are two towers on the right and left sides. The tower on the left side is used as a mosque today.
Pergamon: One of the Seven Churches of Revelation
(Revelation 2:12-17)
(12) "Write this letter to the leader of the church in Pergamos:
"This message is from him who wields the sharp and double-bladed sword. (13) I am fully aware that you live in the city where Satan’s throne is, at the center of satanic worship; and yet you have remained loyal to me and refused to deny me, even when Antipas, my faithful witness, was martyred among you by Satan’s devotees.
(14) "And yet I have a few things against you. You tolerate some among you who do as Balaam did when he taught Balak how to ruin the people of Israel by involving them in sexual sin and encouraging them to go to idol feasts. (15) Yes, you have some of these very same followers of Balaam among you!
(16) "Change your mind and attitude, or else I will come to you suddenly and fight against them with the sword of my mouth.
(17) "Let everyone who can hear, listen to what the Spirit is saying to the churches: Every one who is victorious shall eat of the hidden manna, the secret nourishment from heaven; and I will give to each a white stone and on the stone will be engraved a new name that no one else knows except the one receiving it.

ASKLEPIEION
Asklepieion was a sanctuary and a healing center built in the name of the god of healing, Asklepios. It was similar to the one in Epidauros in Greece and the in the island Cos. Although this place was set up in the 4C BC, it had its peak during the Roman period. In mythology Asklepios, son of Apollo, the god of healing, was a famous physician. His mother, Coronis, a princess of Thessaly, died when he was an infant. Apollo entrusted the child’s education to Chiron, a centaur, who taught Asklepios the healing arts. Asklepios, when grown, became so skilled in surgery and the use of medicinal plants that he could even restore the dead back to life. Hades, ruler of the dead, became alarmed at this and complained to Zeus, who killed Asklepios with a thunderbolt. The healing center, Asclepieum, had been something very similar to a modern natural healing clinic. Patients were given exercises, drugs, herbal remedies, or could take the honey cure, drink the waters of the spring or be treated by suggestion. Here the dreams were analysed 2000 years before Sigmond Freud. They could walk among the trees and be calmed by the scent of pine. Over the gate had been inscribed the words: "In the name of the Gods, Death is forbidden to enter". Snakes were sacred to Asklepios because of their power to renew themselves. That is why there was a relief of snakes at the entrance to the sacred area of the medical center symbolising health. Among the famous physicians of the Asclepieum was Galen.
Galen (c.131-199 AD)
Galen was the most outstanding physician of antiquity after Hippocrates. His anatomical studies on animals and observations of how the human body functions dominated medical theory and practice for 1400 years. Galen was born in Pergamon. A shrine to the healing god Asklepios was located in Pergamon and there young Galen observed how the medical techniques of the time were used to treat the ill or wounded. He received his formal medical training in nearby Smyrna and then travelled widely, gaining more medical knowledge.
Galen dissected many animals, particularly goats, pigs and monkeys, to demonstrate how different muscles are controlled at different levels of the spinal cord. He also showed that the brain controls the voice. Galen showed that arteries carry blood, disproving the 400-year-old belief that arteries carry air. Galen was also highly praised in his time as a philosopher. He closely followed the view of the philosopher Aristotle that nothing in nature is superfluous. Galen’s principal contribution to philosophic thought was the concept that God’s purposes can be understood by examining nature. Galen’s observations in anatomy remained his most enduring contribution. His medical writings were translated by Arab scholars in the 9th century.
The Site
The Colonnaded Road connected Asclepieum to the city. Originally it was 820 m / 2,700 ft. Today only a small part of this road is visible. The Propylon was located at the end of the colonnaded road and dates back to 2nd century AD. It had 12 steps and opened into a large courtyard which was surrounded by stoas on three sides. Stoas originally had Ionic capitals but after an earthquake in the 2C AD, some Corinthian capitals were also used. The Library was for both educational and entertainment purposes with many medical books for the physicians and other books for use by the patients. The Theater is a small building in Roman style with a capacity of 3,500 people. It was mainly used for performances to entertain the patients when not receiving treatment. The Sacred Fountain provided water believed to have had healing power. Sleeping rooms were used to make the patients sleep and analyse their dreams. The Tunnel is a vaulted subterranean passageway. It is 80 m / 262 ft long. Under the floor ran water which provided relaxing sounds. On the ceiling there are 12 windows to provide sunlight inside the tunnel. The Round Treatment Center was a two-storied building. Today only the lower floor remains. The walls and the floor were covered with marble and the roof was made of wood.
The Temple of Asklepios was erected by the Consul of the time in the 2nd century AD. The main part of the temple was cylindrical and covered by a dome. The floor and the walls were decorated with marble mosaics. There were many statues of gods and deities related to health including those of Asklepios himself. This building can be accepted as one of the earliest structures with a dome in Anatolia.
THE BERGAMA MUSEUM
The museum, opened in 1936, has two sections and big courtyard. The first section is designated to Hellenistic, Roman an Byzantium artefacts founded in Pergamon and surrounding areas, including statues, busts, pieces of jewellery, small oil lamps, earthenware objects. The other one is for Ethnographical exhibition, it house objects made from copper and brass, looms, carpets and kilims.
KOZAK PLATEAU
This plateau is 20 km. from Bergama. People can visit villages of Kaplan, Asagibey and Asagicuma. There are ancient Roman spas and ancient city of Perpene. Home made wines and the peanuts are other features of the area. The peanuts trees are magnificent and worth seeing.
TERMAL CENTERS
PERGAMON HOT SPRINGS
The hot springs and the thermal-baths of the Pergamon districts and its surroundings can be listed as follows:
Mahmudiye Thermal Bath:
The radioactivity ratio of the thermal waters that are 26 heat are high. They are splendid in sodium but there is it is used by the villagers as washing water. It is stated that they are beneficial for the skin diseases.
Pascha Thermal Bath:
It is located on the village which is 15 km Norther than Pergamon. Mostly the visitors stay in tents and huts in this Thermal bath. The water is used for bathing due to besides the water is used in the illnesses such as Chronic Rheumatism gut, diabet, fatness, because food metabolism the water is poor in wealth of and mineral salt conditions of decay due to the oldage illness of kidney, gynaecological diseases.
Geyiklidağ Thermal Bath:
There are not any accommodation places around the thermal-bath that stands between the Pergamon and Kozak Bucak center. For that reason the people who live closer to the region use the hot and sulphured water of this thermal which is especially useful for chronic inflammations syndromes; chronic inflammations of upper respiratory system nephrites.
Cleopatra Beauty Thermal Bath
The beauty thermal bath, which is 4 km. Away from Pergamon, has a dome and a hot spring with two marble pools. The hot spring, which is known to have been built in the period of Eumenes the king of Pergamon. It has continued it’s fame for centuries with the name ‘’Eskülup Baths’’. Today the hot springs, which are located in an area of trees, has a hotel and bungalows belonging to the Pergamon municipality nearby. The hot spring provides an attractive holiday with the maintenance and restorations the accommodation facilities went through in 1986. The temperature of the water is around 35 C. The hot spring waters which contain sodium bicarbonate and sulphate are good for rheumatism, heart problems and nerves disorders, tiredness and skin diseases. Also it is a common opinion that the hot springs have a beautifying affection. There is a legend that Cleopatra became more beautiful when she bathed in this thermal bath while she was visiting Pergamon. There is a rather high degree of radioactivity in the waters of the thermal bath.
THE DEREKÖY THERMAL BATH
This thermal bath, which is found about 15 m. East of the Altınova (Ayazment) sub-district that is on the west of Pergamon. Its waters are good for curing people in pain.
THE HAYDAR THERMAL BATH
It is situated in the Ilıca Village which is tied to the sub-district of Kozak, which is on the north of Pergamon. There is only a bath remain of the Roman period. The hot and sulphuric waters are good for the painful illnesses of the movement system and skin diseases.
BERGAMA CARPETS
Bergama carpets are world famous. They have typical colours and motifs, which are used only in this region. There are lots of different products such as kilims, rugs. Bergama carpets have smoother designs and more use of flowery borders.

ULUCAK MOULD
It is located in Ulucak subdistrict of Kemalpasa on 15th km of Bornova-Ankara highway and is one of the oldest settlements of West Anatolia and lighting the way of West Anatolia’s cultural history with its architecture and findings. As a result of the excavations which started in 1995 three culture departments were found. They are; the layer of Early Bronze Age under the settlements of Late Roman, Early Byzantine which are at the top and Late Neolithic settlements at the bottom.
It is possible to see the kiln and furnaces and constructions for daily works and special functioned departments in the oldest layer of Late Neolithic in this tumulus.
Some ruins like ceramics pot, instruments made of lighter stone, stone weapons, mother goddess figures and anthropomorphic cups which were found in excavations are exhibited in Izmir Archeology Museum today.

NOTION
Notion occupied an area of 500 x I,000 metres on two flat-topped hills which rose up on the coast and were separated from each other by a narrow neck of land. The town was about 2 km. distant from the Klaros temple.  A French archaeological expedition worked here under Charles Picard in 1921. The 4 km.- long city wall was erected in the Hellenistic age. It was built of regular square blocks and fortified with square towers; Roman mortar repair work can be observed on some of the faces. Two gates to the city are still visible: one on the west, the other on the north. Other gates must have existed, however. There was also an entrance with steps  at the south-eastern end. The ruins themselves are poorly preserved, but there is a magnificent view from the top of the acropolis to  Samos in the south, Kuşadası in the south-east and to Ephesus. A temple encircled with colonnades is to be found on the western hill. Only the foundation of this templum in antis of the Corinthian order is still  standing; the measurements of  temple were 7,50 x 16 m. the krepidoma ( the platform ) was three-stepped. The frieze was adorned with garlands made from sprays of bay leaves which supported the heads of bulls. The temple was consecrated to Athena Polias and dates from the time of Hadrian.  To the east of the temple can be seen the remains of the foundations of an altar measuring 5.30 x 7.72 m. the temple and the altar were surrounded on all four sides by stoas of the Doric order. The exterior measurements of the temenos, including the stoas, were 17.10 x 38.1 5 m. Shops were arranged along the outer faces of the stoas on the east, west and south. The non-axial arrangement of  the stoas, the temple and the temenos is reminiscent of the plan of the Athena temenos at Pergamon This arrangement, which was contrary to that customary in Roman art, perhaps arose from the fact that the citizens of Notion in the Roman period wished to conform to the traditional style in which the aforementioned  buildings of the Hellenistic period were constructed. The remains of a small temple are to be found to the north-east of the sanctuary of Athena, but it is not known to which god the temple was dedicated. There were originally two agars on the acropolis: one centrally placed the other to the east; however, neither of these has yielded any well-preserved  remains. Close by the east side of the agora, which lies in the middle of the acropolis, are the ruins of a bouleuterion. The city theatre occupied an area in the north-east sector of the acropolis, to the north-west of the eastern agora. This small westward-facing theatre, which was erected in Hellenistic times, underwent  extensive structural  alterations in the Roman era. Although the horseshoe shape was retained, the theatron was rebuilt with an arched  diazoma which conformed to the Roman constructional style.

KOLOPHON
One of the  most important cities of lonia was Kolophon. The Kolophonians became very wealthy owing to the fertility of their land and their skill as mariners. Kolophon came successively under the dominion of Lydia and of Persia. .First Gyges seized Kolophon some time in the first half of the 7th century and  came under Persian rule in the second half of the 6th century. When Alexander the Great came to free Asia Minor from Persian domination, the two cities regained their independence. However, Lycimachos forced the Kolophonians to live in the newly founded city of Ephesus and, since some of them also moved to Notion,  Kolophon  was reduced to a very feeble state. In spite of this, Kolophon was rebuilt in 281, after Lycimachos' death, and it continued to exist under the administration of the Seleucids and Attalids. During this  period Kolophon was known as "archaic Kolophon", i.e., ancient Colophon, and the fame it had lost gravitated to Notion in the south,  about 15 km. away.  Notion then  became  known  as "New  Colophon" or else "Kolophon-on-Sea". Both settlements were in fact prevented from developing by the large new city of Ephesus. The only important remnant of Kolophon, which had known such a glorious past in the 7th and 6th centuries, was the famous temple at Klaros. In Roman times the city was independent and its real centre lay within the acropolis of Notion.
The  ruins  are not in a very  good  state  of  preservation. The city was set on three hills and the intervening valleys; the area enclosed by the triangular city wall is about I km. square. The city  wall, which was fortified  by a dozen semicircular towers, must have been built before the time of Lycimachos, at the end of the 4th century. The earliest settlement was founded on a hill overlooking the south-west plain, at a height of 200 m. Some of the ruins on the northern slopes still exist today.

ALLIANOI
In the excavations done in previous years a new Asklepieion dedicated to Askleipios was found in Pasa Ilıcası, 18 km northeast from Bergama.
Hadrianotherainian P.A. Aristides who lived in the 2nd Century AD tells about the curing in Allianoi where is 23-25 km away from Pergamon in his book named Hieroi Logoi (Sacred Words). Allianoi is supposed to be the antique center which was found in Pasa ılıcası area considering there isn’t any healing center around Pergamon at that distance and at these dimensions. Cult center is revealed to be one of the most important resting places of this region because of its connections with the other highways.
As a result of the excavations since 1998:
- frigidarium built on a 9700 m2 area with still having hot water at 47C resting or therapy rooms, fountains and pools, thermal centers,
      -    double arched Roman bridge which is still used,
- columned ceremony road in east-west direction, 210 m long, 6 m wide
- columned street in north-south direction, 35 m long, 8 m wide,
- stores and shops used for different works at the back of the stoas of the columned street
- a nympheum (a memorial fountain)
- a magnificent healing center
- a propylene at the beginning of the street in north-south direction
- a passage at the end of the streets in east-west direction
- latrine
- a huge church in basilica type
- two graves chapels (the little church)
- necropolis areas (cemetery)
- ceramics workshops, furnaces
- drinking water and waste water systems were found.
Allianoi was probably built in the 2nd century BC and had its golden age during the reign of Emperor  in Hadrian time. In the 2nd Century  AD  it  turned into a cult center where hydrotherapy was held. Here was partly settled in Byzantine time. It is one of the biggest and well preserved complexes which was built on a hot water source in West Anatolia  

LARISSA
Field research at Larissa was begun by Swedish archaeologists in 1902 and continued as a German and Swedish joint dig from 1932 until its termination in 1934. The excavations carried out at Larisa are among the most fruitful field researches undertaken in western Anatolia. Architectural fragments of the archaic period discovered here have been sent to the İzmir Museum, while the terracotta revetments and pottery were conveyed to the İstanbul Museum. It is very surprising that no Hellenic finds have been recovered at Larisa of a date earlier than the 7th century B. C. Especially now, when protogeometric pottery is being discovered in profusion at such places as İzmir and Foça one is right to share the opinion of John Cook who believes that ancient Larisa must have been situated not here but elsewhere. In spite of this, the results of the discoveries pertaining to the archaic period are, as has been stated above, of great importance. The finds at Larisa are the most distinguished examples of the architecture of Aeolis in the 6th, 5th and 4th centuries, known at the present time. After the unparalleled beauty of the Bayraklı walls ( i.e. those of ancient İzmir), which were built in the 7th. and 6th centuries, we observe the continuation of the same tradition at Larisa.
Although grass covers the remains of buildings on the Larissa hill, those who climb it will have the opportunity of seeing some fine wall structures. Close examination reveals that the palace building in the north is a peristyle house with megarons on two sides. Similar peristyle dwellings exist at Priene, but the pattern at Larisa is a continuation of the system that began in Troy II and survived at Tiryns and Gordion, in which the megarons are arranged in rows, side by side. Here in a city where tyrannic rule prevailed, tradition had a stronger hold. On the plan, we can recognize a second peristyle house of smaller dimensions. Here again we observe a megaron complex. This second peristyle house, with two rooms in the rear like the megaron to the north, was constructed in 500 B. C. Later, in about 450, three oikoi each with two columns, were added, one on each of the three sides, and thus a peristyle house came into existence. The same peristyle dwelling continued to be used as it was up to 330, except that, as can be seen from the plan, the oikos on the west side was converted into a megaron, while the oikoi on the south and east sides were left in their original condition. It is interesting to observe that, in the palaces at Pergamon, megaron-type rooms have completely disappeared, and their place is taken by sunnier and better ventilated rooms, which are not so deep.

THE ANCIENT TOWN OF CLOZOMENAI
Limantepe  is a major prehistoric settlement inhabited from the Neolithic until the end of the Late Bronze Age and continuing into the Classical ages as 'Clazomenai' as a 12 Ionian cities. Liman Tepe is located on a headland jutting out into the sea to its north, facing the Karantina Island, and spreads out into the plain to its south. The Neolithic and Chalcolithic settlements are so far represented only by ceramic sherds, lacking any architectural context due to the high water level. The Early Bronze Age is quite well preserved and all the three main phases of this period  are present at the site.The Early Bronze Age I  period is characterised by dark slipped ceramics. A strong fortification system belonging to this phase has also been uncovered in relation with the pottery.  Liman Tepe reflects an urban character during Early Bronze Age II   period being one of the earliest urban settlements of the Aegean. The town is surrounded by a fortification wall with horseshoe-shaped bastions during this period. A very well preserved portion of the defensive system measuring 6 m in height has been excavated during the previous seasons. Recent investigations carried out under water at the northern part of Liman Tepe. Portions of a monumental building  have been uncovered. The structure reflects a well known architectural plan known as a "corridor house". The excavation of this important building is still continuing.
Middle Bronze Age has been attested only in a very limited area with scanty wall remains. Unlike the architectural remains, a distinct pottery assemblage which reflects a smooth transition into Middle Bronze Age has been uncovered.
These structures are always associated with ovens and various goods which reflect certain forms of production at the site. Many artifacts associated with textile production and metallurgical activities have been recovered from this area. Remains to the south of the main road however, reflect monumental structures whose function still awaits to be clarified and the present evidence suggests a function other than production.
The importance of the  town is  to be olive oil production center of the antiquity.

LEBEDOS     
Lebedos, which is one of the 12 Ionian towns, was built in the 7th Century BC on the peninsula known today as Kısık between Gümüldür-Ürkmez. This town, where the people came from Ephesus were forced to settle, had never reached the active life. It was one of the cities which minted coins to its name. Nothing much remained from the town.

THE ANCIENT TOWN OF TEOS
According to tradition, colonists from Minyas in Thessaly, with Athamas as their leader, were the first to settle in Teos, and they were followed by the Athenians. Teos, a member of the Panionion, developed rapidly and soon reached the stage  where  many of  its  inhabitants  left for  Phokaia and  Ephesus.
The largest temple to Dionysus in the ancient world was built at Teos (PI. 55, 'Fig. 48). Moreover the lonian actors' guild was first established in Teos towards the end of the 3rd century B. C., and the players gave performances at various places, using Teos as their centre.
The most prominent personality produced by Teos was the famous lyric poet Anacreon, who lived in the 6th century B. C. The other native of Teos was the book-lover Apellikon, who kept Aristotle's library  intact by buying it for an exorbitant  sum in 100 B. C.  Aristotle's  books were later transported by  Sulla to Rome,  where  they were  published in revised manuscript form by a scholar called Tyrannion.
Teos was situated on the isthmus of a peninsula and possessed one large and one small harbour (Fig. 49). A portion of the city wall in polygonal masonry, dating from the archaic period, is still standing below the acropolis on the south-east side, while a well-preserved section of the Hellenistic city-wall can be seen just west of the enclosing wall of the Dionysus temple The theatre, built in the 2nd century B. C., lies at the south-west end of the acropolis. The auditorium is completely in ruins, whereas the stage, enlarged in Roman times, is in quite a good state of preservation.. The  odeion, lying south-east of the theatre and north-east of the sanctuary of Dionysus, is a well-preserved structure of the Roman period. The gymnasium, which was built just north-east of the acropolis, is still largely concealed by overlying earth. In the north part can be seen the ruins of a castle, built by the Turks in  the  late  l5th  century.  Part of a  Roman breakwater is visible south-west of this castle.
Teos was famous for three products: its limestone,  its wine cups and its fine cloaks made of Milesian wool.

KLAROS
The temple of Apollo at Klaros, famed in Hellenistic times, but more particularly in the Roman period, for its oracle. This holy place had been the centre of an important cult as far back as the 7th and 6th centuries.
The propylon, erected in the 2nd century B. C. It was approximately square in shape and built in the Doric style. The krepidoma was three-stepped. There were four columns on the south side facing the sea, two on the side turned towards the temple. The inner surfaces of the recovered  columns are covered  with  inscriptions carved  in the 2nd century A. D. These comprise lists of deputations from Asia Minor, Thrace, and Eastern Europe who had come to consult the oracle of Apollo. In addition, the names of the  boys, girls and young people who sang hymns to :    the god Apollo are  inscribed on the columns.
At a later date a colonnade set aside for business premises was built along the west side of the propylon, whereas on the east side there was a semi-circular exedra, measuring 8 m. across, which has been preserved in toto. On the north-east side can be seen remains of houses of the late Roman period.
The oracle was consulted  beneath the cella of the temple. Greek and Roman  authorities write that the divine revelations were not made through the medium of a woman, like the Pythia at Delphi, but through a male prophet. The seer would enter a cave or an underground chamber and, having drunk the mysteriously  endowed  holy water, would utter the prophesy in the form of scanned  poetry. The  oracle was always consulted at night. The priests and the thespiodos, the composer of the poetry, were appointed for life, whereas the prophets were changed every year. In addition there were one or two scribes. No oracular inscriptions have been discovered at Klaros,  but specimens of the Apollonian oracle were found, at Pergamon and Turgutlu, just as they came to light in Dalmatia, Algeria, Sardinia, Rome and even far-off Britain. The four steps on the east face of the temple are covered with  inscriptions  for their  entire length.  They  consist  of lists  of delegations  coming from  distant towns and  countries  to  seek  the advice of the god Apollo. Besides the remote places already mentioned, inscriptions originating from the temple also were found at Olbia in southern Russia, and at Sıvas, Amasya, Kayseri and Konya in Anatolia. We have already related above in the chapter on Izmir how, during the time of Alexander, the Smyrnaians, when leaving Bayraklı for Kadifekale  sought the advice of the Klarian Apollo.
The remains  obtained  during the excavations have yielded a wealth of information as to how the functions of the oracle were performed. In the area around the entrance to the temple in the pronaos, there are two corridors of blue marble running parallel to each other, one in the north, the other in the south. These are 0,7m.-wide and 1.80 m.- high. A little farther  along, each corridor makes a right-angled bend and continues for some distance as a single passage-way. They later separate again and complete the symmetrical plan begun on the east. The two corridors both led to the adyton, i.e. the innermost shrine. The adyton consisted of two underground vaulted chambers and it lay beneath the cella, where the statue of the seated Apollo was situated. The first of these, i.e., the one on the east, which was at a depth  of 6.43 m., was reached by two passageways, one on the right, the other on the  left, as has been  explained  above.  There  were  stone  benches  for  seating purposes in this room, and also the sacred stone of Apollo, i.e., an omphalos  (similar to that renowned at Delphi) fashioned from blue stone. This first chamber was a waiting room, and it was occupied by the above- mentioned prophet, the thespiodos and the scribe or scribes. The eastern chamber was separated from the western by a massive wall, 2.70 m. in thickness with a communicating door, 1.70 m. high in the exact centre. There was no other entrance to this second room, which was at a depth of only 4 m.
27 m. east of the temple is a large altar measuring 9 m. x 18.45 m. The expedition in charge of the excavations records that there were two altar slabs here : one for offerings to Apollo, the other sacred to Dionysus.
South of the temple and parallel to it can be seen a small temple of the lonic order and in front of that an altar. This temple must have been sacred to Artemis, because the statue of a goddess found near the altar was dedicated to Artemis of Klaros.  Close to this small temple, six votive stones are to be found. These are all of the late period; one of them was set up to Poseidon Themeliouchos, another to the goddess Artemis Pythia of Miletos.
North of the altar attributed to the temple of Apollo, a well  reserved stone  sundial can be seen , on which  is an inscription to the effect that it was donated by the agoranomos  in  Hellenistic times.  A  stone  with  an inscription was set up to the south of the altar, in the name of  Cicero's brother, Quintus Tullius  Cicero,  who was a  governor of the province of Asia. Further south, a well-preserved exedra and a stone armchair  can  be observed. The armrests of the chair are shaped like winged serpents.
Some statues and reliefs of fine quality were brought to light during the excavations and these are now housed in the museum at Izmir. Mention can be made of a particularly beautiful fragment of a Hellenistic frieze and the statue of a man of the archaic period holding a sacrificial calf in both  hands.

ILDIRI
Ildırı, a quiet seaside village 20 km Northeast of "Çeşme" was ancient Erythrai. Those who climb up to the Acropolis at dusk are rewarded with a beautiful sunset over the bay and islands.

THE ANCIENT TOWN OF ERYTHRAI
It is situated 22 km. south east of Cesme. The earliest findings date to the Bronze Age. Its name is believed to have come from the ancient Greek word “erythros” meaning “red” or “red town”, because the soil around the town is deep red.
Through the ages, Erythrai came under the control of various rulers and was influenced by their particular civilisations. In the 7th century B.C.  as an Ionian city, Erythrai  was a member of Pan-Ionian League. The city  gained fame as a producer of millstones  during  the period of  tyrannical rule. After then  Lydians and Persians  took control of the city. In 334 B.C. Erythrai was conquered by Alexander the Great to be followed  by the kingdom of  Pergamon. When this kingdom merged with the Roman Empire, Erythrai was gained the status of independent  city.
At this time,  Erythrai  was renowned  for its  wines, goats, timber and millstones as well as the female oracles of Cybl and Athenias. The city was famed  for being the birth place of  Heracleides, the student of Herophilos who was the leader  of the school of dogmatic physicians. During the earthquakes  and wars,  most of the city was  damaged in the first century B.C.
During the Byzantium period the city lost its importance.
In 1336, Erythrai  came under the rule of the Turks and the name changed as Ildır, its present name.
The remains of the acropolis and theatre were found in the excavations.  The traces of a temple  at the highest point of the acropolis  and city walls were discovered.  Other findings  are pottery, bowls,  stone and clay figures, vases and statues from the 6th and 7th centuries.

FOÇA (FOCAEA)
Foça, ancient Focaea, one of the members of Ionian Confederation is located between Çandarlı (Ancient Phytane) and İzmir (ancient Smyrna) bays and has always been attractive to the people of ancient and modern world with her natural beauty such as her three sides being surrounded by clear, sparkling blue water (Aegean Sea) her slopes covered with fragrant pine trees and fascinating small islands which resemble fairy chimneys of Cappadocia.
The Focaean plain between volcanic low-hills made her fame through historical eras in olivery and vinery. Focaea has the specification of being the closest harbor of Aegean fishing fields. Meanwhile, the Focaean sea shores are very convenient for the fantastic water-sports.
Focaea is under the effect of typical Mediterranean climate namely, winters are warm and  rainy , summers are dry and hot. However, she always takes the west breeze in the summer from three sides giving very pleasant air-freshness to the area. May through September are ideal months for a beautiful, satisfactory vacation. The average heat of summer months is 26 degrees C and the warmth of water is 22 degrees C.
In Focaea, besides the seasonal fishes it is always possible to find the other kinds of delicious fish such as Barbun, Mercan, Çipura, Levrek, Kefal, Mezgit (Bakeleru) in reasonable prices and as very fresh. The native and foreign tourists coming to the town are anxious to consume these delicious, variety-rich sea foods at the local restaurants with sincere atmosphere.
The tourists coming from Marseilles while walking along this fascinating shore of the Aegean sea are always imagining the founders of Marseilles about 2500 years ago and they are fascinated with the resemblance of both cities. More or less Focaea and Marseilles have the same scenery.
The town probably took its name from the seals which appeared in the Archaic period on its coins of electrum ( an alloy of gold and silver ).
THE MONK SEALS OF FOÇA
On the world, the monk seals have a population of 350-400. In Foça, these monk seals are settled down on the islands just near Foça.
For the protection of the monk seals Word Wide Foundation (WWF), National Protection of Monk Seals Committee is carrying out studies. They are trying to conserve them and find a few areas in the world.
Whoever comes to this part of Aegean from Marseilles can not go back without seeing  Focaea land of their ancestors which we name as the pilgrimage center of the letter. It is a reality that Focaea with her 8000 population is a miniature of Marseilles.
The sea is still keeping its all beauty alive and the nature is still offering the ancient peace-giving life in Focaea.
The History: Focaea along with Miletus was the most important state of Anatolia in the 7th and 6th centuries BC Its importance in view of science, culture and art is out of discussion.
Velia, near Alalia Pastum at Corsica, Marseilles and the eastern shore cities of Spain were the commonwealth of  Focaea.
Focaea, who founded more than one dozen colonies on the Anatolian Black Sea coasts, at Dardanelles and at the east Mediterranean in the commercial circles of the then known world, was one of the most flourishing  cities of  the eastern Hellenic cities around 600 BC
The Focaeans used to make pottery of the silt of Gediz ( Hermos ) river and mint coins in the ceramic moulds.
Their living income was being earned by commerce and navigation. They were in a high stage of ship building. Their 50-rowed ships had spred great fame throughout whole Mediterranean Sea. Focaeans were members of the Ionian ( Panionian ) Confederation which consisted of twelve city-states.
The Foceans along with the yacht-shaped cruise and entertainment ships founded more than 20 trade colonies at the west Mediterranean area.
Especially, the west Mediterranean Focaean  colonies  became the cultural, philosophic centers of the ancient world. Parmanides of Velia/Italia and zeno have come from Focaeans.
Harpagos carried his units and surrounded Focaea which at that time had reinforced their defense. He also stated that he would become very pleased if the Foceans destroy one of the towers of the city walls for him and allot one of their houses to him. In spite of the fact Foceans had feared being slaves and hating the slavery they got nervous upon receiving this proposal and in order to gain time they said they would answer this proposal next day. And they asked Harpagos to draw his forces back until the due time. Harpagos, however as being aware of their intention he accepted this desire.
As  the enemy  forces  were withdrawn the  Foceans ranged their fleet into the sea with receiving  with themselves their children, wives, the goods and statues from their temples and all the  carriable material except marble and bronze statues, and sailed away towards island Chios. But, the Persians upon returning back to Focaea were faced with an empty city.
On the other hand, after having sailed into the sea they proposed for purchasing the island Danussai from the people of Chios. But Chiosians having the fear of their being competitors in the commerce and establishing a trade center in the hearth of Chiosians did not deem it appropriate. in such a situation Focaeans decided to migrate to island Corsica, they once again returned to Focaea. They destroyed the Persians units which had the administration or the city from Harpagos and which established a garrison in the city and then they decided to condemn those harshly who would have an intention to return to Focaea from their union. They altogether oathed not to return to Focaea again. They threw a piece of iron into the sea and promised that until this piece of iron comes to the surface of the sea nobody would return to Focaea. But, during the tiresome voyage to Corsica many of them broke their promise at the half way and sailed back to their homeland with a great homesickness.
The others keeping their promise went from Danussai to Corsica. During the Byzantine Empire period the city walls of Focaea were almost destroyed. But, Genoese in the time of Byzantine emperor Michael Paleolouge in the year of 1275 received Focaea as wedding gift and founded Yeni Foça ( New Focaea) as an outpost for Focaea.
In those times Yeni Foça was so rich in alum mining. Genoese were operating the mine and paying tax to the Byzantine Empire.  Genoese repaired and reconstructed Focaea which then remained in the eastern Roman Empire territory. Thus this city gained its old historical appearance and became an export-import harbor in the commerce taking place between Aegean area and Anatolia.
In the medieval age, after 180 years lasted Geneose sovereignty, Focaea New Focaea were besieged by Mehmet II, the conqueror in 1455 and became part of the Ottoman Empire.
THE PLACES OF INTEREST
SIREN ROCKS
The colorful rocks, from cotton-white to gypsy pink colors, arising as an iceberg in the middle of the sea, the caves embraced with the sea at the shores, wide-spread rocks into the open sea which has shallowness in their surrounding. Among these rock formations there are convenient canals providing passage to the motor-boats.
In the lyric tales of Homeros these rock are mentioned as Siren rockies which were deceiving the sailors and causing them to hit their ships to the rocks. The biggest of the wide-spred seal resembling small island in the Focaea harbor is Orak Island Rockies.
The sirens are female headed, bird bodied, magic voiced creatures that attract sailors. In Odyssey of Homer, one of the worst adventures of Odyssey is the Siren. In this mythology it is believed that all the sailors that heard the sings of Sirens have cast a spell on. Odyssey while passing through the Sirens closes his mouth and closes the ears of his crew so even if he gets the magic and tell his crew to stop, the crew will not hear him and they will pass with safety. 
The Tomb Monument
About 7 kms eastward of Focaea, there is a rock-cut tomb which is thought to be a Persian monument built in the 4th century Bc. An entrance to the north leads to the burial room where a grave, rectangular in shape, was cut into the rock.
City Walls and Five-Gates
In the medieval era the city was surrounded with walls having towers and hatches. In the 17th century in the battle between Turks and Venetian this became a base for the water-cut battery.
Outer Castle
This castle was constructed in 1678 and is very picturesque. There one can see remains of a Turkish bath at the inner part.
The Mosque Fatih
It was built in the honor of Fatih Sultan Mehmet ( the conqueror ). It was reconstructed in the reign of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent.
The Bath of Satan
It was carved in the rocks in the 4th century BC. It was a tomb and has four chambers inside.
Shopping Centers
All of the shops and boutiques are together at the Küçükdeniz district of Focaea.
In these shops they sell leather products, carpets, kilims, copper-ware, onyx, Şile fabrics shirts and suits  or dresses. Apart from this, there can be found all kinds of typical souvenirs for the tourists to be presented to their relatives and friends  upon returning back home.
The folklore, Music and water-Sports Festival of Focaea take place every year in the third week  of June and lasts three days.

TORBALI
Torbalı is situated  at the east of İzmir in the Küçük Menderes district. It is 45 km to İzmir. The ancient ruins of Metropolis are around Yeniköy and Özbey villages. The excavations revealed that the city was one of the three wine centers in the whole Anatolia.
METROPOLIS
Metropolis,   meaning  Mother Goddess, was  founded around 725 B.C. and lived its sparkling time   during the  Hellenistic Period. The city developed in the beginning of the 3rd century B.C.  The city was surrounded by magnificent defence walls, the temple of Ares, various monumental buildings such as stoa and the theatre were established on the acropolis.
During the Roman Period, the city retained its importance but Romans preferred  to settle in the plain rather than on the slopes. The city  was expended  during the Byzantium time. But in the late Byzantium period wars and  instability led to a reduction in the size of the city. Later on, Metropolis was inhabited by Turks.
The Theatre:
The theatre was established in the  late Hellenistic period. It was constructed against the slope of a hill, possessing a very beautiful view overlooking the plain as it is seen in each Hellenistic. In 4-14 A.D. the three round altars adorned with garlands and ram, bull and stag heads were added in honour of  the Roman emperor Augustus.  The seats  of the theatre for  royal family and distinguished people are the beautiful examples of the Hellenistic sculpture. The stage  building , the orchestra and cavea were uncovered during the excavations. The auditorium ( cavea ) was divided in two by a corridor and the lower part  was divided by flights of the steps in to seven sections, known as kerkis, each of  which consisted of eleven rows of seats.
The theatre was not in use after 4th century A.D and utilised  as a refuse dump for the near by glass workshop.
Stoa: 
The stoa which is established in the 3rd century B.C. is 70x10.5 metres and divided into two aisles by a row of 19 columns.  The structure is open in front with walls and on the two sides.
The stoa was constructed on a slope and destroyed in the earthquake  that devastated  Western Anatolia in 17 A.D. and was never reconstructed.
Acropolis:
The acropolis, upper city, was founded on a hill height of 145 metres. The entrance gate of the acropolis lies on the eastern side, originally Hellenistic period. The city of Metropolis consisted of the buildings and monuments built on the acropolis and in  terraced rows. The temple of  Ares was located with in the acropolis. During the Roman Period, there was no settlement within the defence walls of the acropolis, the city having spread down the slopes to the level ground below. Because of the wars and bad economic conditions, the acropolis was  densely inhabited. The site continued to be throughout  the Byzantine period.
Excavations have been carried on by prof. Recep Meriç from Dokuz Eylül University since 1989 by the supports of Ministry of culture, Municipality of Torbalı ad Philsa.

TEPE KULE
The first diggings carried out between 1948 and 1951 were undertaken jointly by Ankara University and the British School of Archaelogy at Athens, under the direction of John Cook and Ekrem Akurgal. They were recommended in 1966 by the latter under the auspices of the Turkish Historical Society and the general Directorate of Turkish Museums as well as of the Universities of Ege and Ankara. The new information was gained concerning the history of the old city of İzmir, as a result of this joint expedition. Excavations have revealed that the earliest settlement in İzmir was founded in the 3rd Millennium B.C. at present-day Bayraklı, on which mound where vineyards managed by the State Monopoly (TEKEL). In antiquity the plain of Bornova was covered by the sea and the above mentioned city mound seen there today was a small peninsula on the edge of the Bay of İzmir. The first inhabitants of Smyrna were Lelegians and Carians and they were both the native peoples of Anatolia. The first inhabitants, as was revealed by the excavations, built their houses on the rock; their settlement is contemporary with Troy I and II. The second millennium Strata of Bayraklı were contemporary with Troy IV and Hittite civilisation
By 1500 B.C the city was subject to the influence of the Hittite Empire of the Central Anatolia and two important Hittite monuments, Tudhaliya relief at Kemalpaşa and the relief of a mother goddess at Manisa testify this influence. In the 11th century B.C. the coastal city of Smyrna was inhabited by Ionians and Aelonians. The one-roomed building made of sun-dried brick which was brought to light at Bayraklı, is the best oldest house of its period. The megaron, built in the 7th century B.C. and restored in the 6th, is e unique example of this type of house dating from the archaic period. The temple dating from the end of the 7th century B.C., which is being unearthed at Bayraklı, is the earliest and finest religious building of the eastern Greek world in Asia Minor (Anatolia). According to the inscription on a bronze bar (probably a balance) found during the excavations, the temple was dedicated to the goddess Athena. The capitals and the column bases are the oldest and most beautiful ones of the Hellenistic world. The ancient fountain dating back to the 6th century BC on the southern skirts of the ruins is one of the oldest fountains in the world and can be seen next to the city walls.
It is also worth mentioning that there is also a bust of the well-known Turkish archaeologist Ekrem Akurgal, who first discovered this important archaeological site. 
The symbol of the ancient city of İzmir was a lion’s head. Today, in the British Museum, we can see a lion’s head on a coin which was minted at the beginning of the 6th century B.C. İzmir, was one of the important cities of the Ionic Federation and it was during this period that the city had one of its most brilliant times.
The conquest of the city by King Alyettes of Lydia around 600 B.C. brought this period to an end. The city was destroyed and the people were driven out of the city and they were forced to live in villages. Nevertheless, the next ten or twenty years witnessed a gradual return to the city; the devastated houses were repaired and new buildings were erected.  It was then again conquered by the Persians in the middle of the 6th century. Alexander the Great put an end to the sovereignty of the Persians in the 4th century B.C. and ordered a new city to be built on the slopes of Mt.Pagos(Kadifekale).

EPHESUS
The town, located on the western edge of the Aegean Region of Turkey lies 73 kilometers south of İzmir on the İzmir-Aydın highway and 9 km.east of Pamucak, which is on the seashore and has clean natural sandy beaches and crystal clear waters. Selçuk has an area of 295 square kilometers. In the region Mediterranean climate is dominant. The cultivation of cotton, olives, grapes, citrus fruits is the driving forces in the economy in addition to the tourism industry. The town can house about 10.000 visitors.
The town can be reached by air via the Adnan Menderes Airport at İzmir or by the Selçuk - Efes Airfield. The ports at Kuşadası and İzmir faciliate sea travel. Because of it is location on a major highway, the bus connections are frequent and direct. Selçuk has rail connections to the neighbouring cities and towns. Selçuk, the beginning of whose history dates back to 6000 B.C., is an important center for three religions, all of which spread throughout the world.
It was first a center of pagan worship in the polytheist world of antiquity. The Temple of Artemis, one of the seven wonders of the world is a good example of this. Christianity was disseminated from Selçuk by St. John and his disciples. The Church of Virgin Mary and the tomb of St.John are important buildings from this period.
The İsa Bey Mosque is a significant example of architecture from the Islamic era. The famous Camel Wrestling Festival takes place on the third weekend of January each year.
APASAS - EPHESUS- SELÇUK
Ephesus, one of the most famous cities in antiquity , was founded on the harbour where the Küçük Menderes(Kaistros) River flows into. Selçuk grew to be an important city because of its fertile fields well-suited to agriculture, because of its location at the center of an important commercial crossroads with connections to the east. And because it was a significant religious center both in the polytheist period and the Christian era. Many famous historical figures lived in Ephesus such as; Artemidorus, dream commentator poets such as Kallinos and Hipponax, the philosopher Heracleitus, the painter Parrhasius, the grammarian Zenodotos, the Physicians Soranus and Rufus. The artefacts recently found at the hüyük (mounds) at Arvalya and Çukuriçi Mounds have revealed that the history of Ephesus dates back to 6000 B.C.The excavations carried out on Ayasuluk Hill reveal that the history of Ephesus goes back to 6.000 B.C.,the Chacolithic Period. Excavations at the Ayasuluk Hill brought to light a settlement from the Early Bronze Age. Thus ancient Ephesus was first located on the Ayasuluk Hill. It was first settled by Anatolian tribes and Hittites, for Ephesus is mentioned in the Hittite cuneiform tablets under the name of Apasas. The ancient geographers Strabo and Pausanias, the poet Kallinos, and the historian Herodotus claim that Ephesus was founded by Amazons and that the native tribes of the area of the area were the Carians and the Lelegians. Like colonists elsewhere in the Mediterranean basin, Androklos and his men arrived in Anatolia around 1050 B.C. and settled at Ephesus and its vicinity. Destroying the Temple of Artemis, the Cimmerians attacked this colony in the 7th century B.C. In the 560 B.C. under the sovereignty of Lydia the Ephesians began to inhabit in the area around the Temple of Artemis. The ancient city of Ephesus whose ruins visible today was established by Lysimachos, one of the generals of Alexander the Great, in 300 B.C.The city of Ephesus was moved back to the Ayasuluk Hill where had been its earliest settlement, during the Byzantine period. The city fell into the hands of Turks in 1304 and it became a part of the Ottoman territories. The city name of Ayasuluk was changed to Selçuk in 1914. For a period after the War of Turkish Independence, the city was called Akıncılar. In 1957 Selçuk became a town with in the province of İzmir.
SITES OF HISTORICAL SIGNIFICANCE AT SELÇUK
İSA BEY MOSQUE
Isa Bey, a member of the ruling family in the district of Aydın commissioned the architect Ali to built this mosque in 1375. Some architectural elements from the Temple of Artemis, in particular the columns were reused in its construction. Measuring 51m x57m it is the earliest representative of a mosque with a colonnaded courtyard in Anatolia. It displays typical elements of Seljuk architecture and ornamentation, such as the pendants of the domes with the painted tiles, the stalactites of the window mouldings with arabesque motifs, coloured stones and painted tiles particularly the faience mosaics of the south dome. The monumental height of the west portal is the typical features of the Seljuk style. The mihrab and the pulpit are constructed from marble. In addition to this mosque, Selçuk also houses four small mosques currently in use and kümbets (large tombs with domed or conical roofs. All these structures belong to Aydınoğulları Aydın Emirates) and Ottoman periods.
THE AQUADUCTS
The aqueducts, which have been used to carry water to the Ayasuluk Hill from the water sources on the slopes of lying to the east of Ephesus, have been preserved from the Byzantine period. The aqueducts reach a height of fifteen meters.
GATE OF PERSECUTION
This gate forms the entrance to the walls of the Byzantine fortification, and is decorated with reliefs depicting scenes of the pursuit from the life of Greek hero Achilleus. It probably dates to the 6th or 7th century A.D.
THE St.JOHN CHURCH
This church was built over the tomb of St. John. The presently-visible church is cruciform and roofed with six massive domes, and was built by the Emperor Justinian and his wife Theodora. The capitals facing the nave (central aisle) bear their monograms.
THE CASTLE
The castle, located on the highest point of the Ayasuluk Hill and was constructed by Aydınoğulları (The Aydın Emirate).It has 15 towers, a mosque and cisterns, and is entered through the gate on the west.
THE EPHESUS MUSEUM
Founded in 1929 it is one of the finest museums in Turkey which houses the artifacts discovered at the ancient site of Ephesus and its vicinity. The present museum building was in 1964 and underwent restorations in 1992. The objects on display dated to all periods of history: Mycenaean, Archaic, Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine and Turkish
THE SAADET HATUN BATH (BATH MUSEUM)
This structure, built in the 16th century and later restorated, is located within the Ephesus Museum complex and is the first “Bath Museum” in Turkey.
THE CAVE OF THE SEVEN SLEEPERS
During the reign of the Emperor Decius, Christians in Ephesus suffered from persecution because of their faith. Seven young Christians escaping from the cruelty of Decius took a shelter in a cave, which lies on the slope of Panayır Mountain. Falling into a deep sleep that lasted 200 years, they awoke in the reign of the Emperor Theodosus II, and saw that the Christianity had become the official religion. Because of this miraculous event, the seven people were considered to be sacred,, and were buried in the same grotto after their natural lives had passed. A church was built to mark the site.
THE TEMPLE OF ARTEMIS
Measuring 125 by 60 meters, the temple of Artemis is counted as one of the Seven Wonders of the World. The ancient author Pliny writes that the temple was destroyed and rebuilt seven times. The worship of Artemis is a continuation of the worship of the Anatolian mother goddess Kybele. The Lydian King Croesus donated columns carved with reliefs to the temple. One version of the temple was set on fire in 356 B.C. by a certain Herostratus, who wanted to make a name for himself in history
EPHESUS
Although ancient writes claim that the name of Ephesus derives from an Amazon Queen’s name, the archaeological finds reveals that The Carians and Lelegians, the native peoples of Anatolia, had settled here long before the Ionians’ arrival. Ephesus was first established in 6000 B.C and grew up around the Temple of Artemis. The Ephesians started to move to the new city built by Lysimachos in the 3rd century B.C. The following is the list of the various ruins of Ephesus as they appear from the upper gate, which leads to the House of Virgin Mary, to the lower gate.
THE MAGNESIAN GATE
This is the only city gate that survives up to the present day. There is not much thing to see today.
THE EAST GYMNASIUM
The East Gymnasium, one of the monumental structures of Ephesus, the gymnasium, is a complex that includes baths, palaestrae (exercise fields), study halls, and imperial cult rooms. According to an inscription it was built by famous sophist Flavius Damianus and his wife Vedia Phaedrina.
THE VARIUS BATHS
The Varius Baths were constructed in the 1st century B.C. During the excavations, parts of a bath and a roman latrine came to light. These structures next to the bath might belong to a gymnasium that may have been part of the complex.
THE WATER SYSTEM AND NYMPHENIUM
The water springs are rather away from the fountains and houses in Ephesus. This monumental fountain on the street bounding the south side of the state was supplied by the Marnas River. The large fountain is well integrated into the street that fronts it. This monumental fountain was built between 4-14 A.D., and underwent various renovations the last of which was in the fourth century.
THE STATE AGORA
The state agora, measures 160 X 73 meters and was constructed in the 1st century A.D. It was the place the location of official religious and civic ceremonies, of government assemblies, and of the mercantile activities of the larger trading concerns that were subject to government regulation.

THE ODEION
This structure was devoted both to civic meetings and musical and theatrical performances. It seated 1400 people, and was constructed by Vedius Antonius and his wife Papiana in the second century A.D.
THE PRYTANEION
The Prytaneion (town hall ) was considered to be the sacred place of the city. It contained the altar of Hestia Boulaia, where a sacred fire burnt perpetually for centuries and was never extinguished. This the find spot of the two great statues of the Ephesian Artemis which are displayed at the museum now. The building was built in the 3rd century B.C during the reign of Lysimachos. The ruins seen today is dated to 1st century A.D. Two later temples near the site were dedicated to emperor Julius Caesar and Dea Roma, the divine personification of the city of Rome.
THE WATER PALACE
It was built by proconsul Laecanius Bassus in 80 A.D., and is also called the “Water palace" because of its monumental appearance.
THE MEMMIUS MONUMENT
Memmius was one of the grandsons of Sulla, the famous Roman general. This monument dedicated to him was constructed in the first century A.D. during the reign of emperor August. A fountain was built into the northwest corner of the monument in the fourth century A.D.
THE TEMPLE OF DOMITIAN
Dedicated to Domitian, this is the first structure in Ephesus to be built in honour of a Roman emperor. The temple was erected on a terrace supported by a substructure measuring 50 by 100meters The substructure of the temple is used as "Inscription Gallery" today.
THE POLLIO FOUNTAIN
This structure dedicated to C.Sextilius Pollio in 97 A.D. It was decorated by the statue group of Odysseus and Polyphemus, and a basin stood in front of it.
THE GATE OF HERCULES
Just before the Street of the Curetes stand the remains of ancient gate known as the Gate of Hercules. This name arises from the figures of Hercules on the western faces of the two extant pillars. The capitals of the columns were decorated with acanthus leaves. Presumably these pillars, along with four others were standing on the beam above the arch of the gate.

THE STREETS OF KOURETES
Owing to the fact that this street was used by a six-membered-class of civic priests, who were chosen anew each year, and played an important role in the management of the city, it was given “Kouretes Street. The porticoes flanked both sides of the street, which provided shade for pedestrian, and behind of which were located the various shops. The street was lined by statues of prominent Ephesians. After three severe earthquakes hit the city in the 4th century A.D. the street was restored. The main sewer system in Ephesus lies beneath this marble pavement of the street.
THE FOUNTAIN OF TRAJAN
It was dedicated to the emperor Trajan (98- 117), and constructed between 102-114 A.D. The two storied fountain had a colossal statue of Emperor Trajan in the middle.
THE SCOLASTICA BATHS
The first construction on this site dates to the first century, and was later connected to the brothel and the latrine. The three storied bath dates to 400A.D. comprises a various rooms for bathing and lounging along with a library and has a capacity of 1000.
THE LATRINE
The general toilets had a square pool in the middle surrounded on four sides by toilet seats, in front of which was a channel of running water. The floor of this place was covered with mosaics.
THE HADRIAN TEMPLE
The Hadrian Temple is one of the most impressive constructions in Ephesus .It was dedicated to the Emperor Hadrian (118-138 A.D.) . The relief of Tyche, the goddess of city, is seen on the pediment of the temple. The legend about how Ephesus was established is also depicted on the friezes of the temple.
THE SLOPE HOUSES
These two or three storied houses belonged to the wealthy people of Ephesus were first built in the 1st century A.D. They were used as dwelling, with some renovations and repair until the seventh century. The walls were garnished with frescoes and the floors were decorated with mosaics.
THE BROTHEL
This two storied structure built during the reign of emperor Trajan, forms a complex with the Scholastica Baths the latrines. The walls were decorated with frescoes and the floor was covered with mosaics.
THE LIBRARY OF CELSUS
The Celsus Library was erected in A.D 135 by Julius Aquila for his father Julius Celsus Polemaeanus, the consul of Asia province of Roman Empire. The library, measuring 60.90 by 16.72 meters had a two storied facade and a large room inside. Its facade contains exemplars of architectural elements that are among the most beautiful ones of the period, such as doors, windows , gables, niches and columns. A gap of one meter between inner and outer walls of the the library protected the books from extremes of temperature and humidity. The sarcophagus of Celsus stand under the west side of the library. Four female statues standing between the columns personify the virtues of Celsus : Sophia (wisdom), Arete (virtue), Ennoia (intelligence), Episteme (knowledge). Celsus himself is buried in a sarcophagus beneath the west side of the library.
THE GATE OF MAZAEUS AND MITHRIDATES
This gate to the Agora was erected in 4-3 B.C by the freed slaves Mazaeus and Mithridates in honour of their former masters emperor Augustus and his family.
THE COMMERCIAL AGORA
The commercial agora , one of the significant centres in Ephesus was the real market place for trade in Ephesus. It was square and enclosed on all four sides by stoas. The agora was set up during the Hellenistic age and rebuilt during the reign of Emperor Nero and again in the 3rd century A.D.
THE TEMPLE OF SERAPIS
A path with a flight of stairs at the southwest corner of the Agora leads to the Temple of Serapis. The temple was rising on a high terrace .This prostyle temple had columns in the Corinthian order, each of which had a diameter of 1.5 meters and a total weight of 57 tons.
THE MARBLE ROAD
The sacred way that surrounds the Panayır Mountain is called the marble Street here, and is well preserved. The road was intended for vehicles, since pedestrians could use the colonnade. The huge sewer system of the city, which had a channel large enough to be entered by a human being also was running under this street.
THE GREAT THEATRE
It is situated on the slope of Mount Panayır. It was first built in the Hellenistic times and renovated in the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D. It seated 24.000 spectators. The stage building was three storied and rose to a height of 18 m. The cavea, the seating area, had consisted of three superimposed sections. The theatre was the scene of gladiatorial fights during the late Roman period.
During the early years of the Christianity, St.Paul who came to Ephesus to spread Christianty and he wanted to address to the crowd at the theatre. The silversmith Demetrius provoked the people against St. Paul because he earned a lot of many with his handmade Artemis statues and they shouted altogether “ Artemis of Ephesus is great, The greatest is Artemis”. So St.Paul was forced to leave Ephesus and he continued his journey to Macedonia.
THE ARKADIANE (HARBOUR) WAY
It was constructed in late Hellenistic period and renovated by the Emperor Arcadius (395 - 405) and known by his name. It is 500 m. in length and 11m. in width The shops were located on both sides of the Arkadiane way.
It is also known as "Harbour Way"
THE THEATRE GYMNASIUM
This structure was built in the early period of the Roman Empire. Since it is situated next to the theatre it is also called "The Theatre Gymnasium" It is the largest gymnasium at Ephesus
THE HARBOUR GYMNASIUM AND BATHS:
There were two palaestra (athletic training grounds), one of which was 90 sq.m area and the other 200mx240m. The structure was built in the reigns of Emperors Domitian and Hadrian. The baths were erected in the second century. Since the baths were renovated in the 4th century they were also called " The Constantines Baths".
THE CHUCH OF VIRGIN MARY ( THE CHURCH OF COUNCILS)
This church , one of the important edifices of Christianity. is the first church which was dedicated to Virgin Mary.The third meeting of the Ecumenical Council was held in this church in A.D 431.
THE STADIUM
The stadium measured 230mx30m and resembled a horse-shoe. The entrance was in its west facade. Seats for the spectators on the south side were constructed on the slopes of Mt.Pion while those on the north were built over a vaulted substructure .The first site of the stadium appears to go back to the Hellenistic period, and during the reign of the Emperor Nero (54-68 A.D.) it underwent transformation.
THE VEDIUS GYMNASIUM
The gymnasium ,one of the preserved buildings to be found in Ephesus, was erected in A.D 150 by P.Vedius Antonius, one of the prominent wealthy Ephesians of the time and dedicated to the Emperor Pius and the goddess Artemis.
THE HOUSE OF VIRGIN MARY
The House of Virgin Mary is settled on the peak of the Bulbul Dagı (Nightingale Mountain), 9 km away from Selçuk. According to the records of the Christian Council, Virgin Mary lived in this house until she died at the age of 64. It is widely believed that she left Jerusalem with St. John four or six years after the crucifixion of Jesus. John wrote in Bible that Jesus himself before crucifixion entrusted Virgin Mary to him. After Jesus’ death Mother Mary and St.John According to legend, St.John came to Ephesus, St.John took Mary to a house he had built on Nightingale Mountain. This house where Mary is thought to have spent her last days was forgotten in time and fell to ruin. In the Middle Ages it was often claimed that the house was found but to no definite result.
In 1878 German nun Catherine Emmerich talked about the location of the house in a book by Clement Brentwood and interest was revived. In 1891 the Lazarus priest Eugene Pauline, who was head of Izmir College, sent a group under priest Young to find out if what was being claimed was true. The group explored the mountains south of Ephesus and came upon the house now known as the House of Mary.
Catherine Emmerich (1771-1824) had never left her hometown in all her life, was in a trance when making her explanation of the house's location. After this discovery, Eugene Pauline printed a number of things to increase interest in the find. The event was heard around the world. Many religious investigators shared the same conclusion. Izmir Patriarch Monsignor Tomin visited the site and gave permission for conducting services on the site in 1892. Pope John XXIII proclaimed the house a pilgrimage site, quieting all controversy over the site. The visits which Popes Paul VI (1967) and John Paul II (1979) paid to this building strengthened the belief that Virgin Mary lived and died at Ephesus.
The following facts are some of the supporting proofs that Virgn Mary died at Ephesus.
THE COUNCIL CHURCH:
The existence at Ephesus, as early as the third century, of the first large Christian Church dedicated to St. Mary, where the Council of 431 was held, proves that Virgin Mary had either lived or died at Ephesus. Church laws. Then prevalent, did not allow the building of churches to venerate saints, except in places where they had lived or died.
THE COUNCIL LETTER
The letter of the Council Fathers to the Clergy of Constantinople mentions Virgin Mary as Our Lady Theotokos (Mother of God) and the Apostle St. John. It reads “....Nestorius came to this city where St. John and Mother of God, the Virgin Mary.....(lived)” The text iz elliptical, but there is no doubt as to its meaning. Besides, St. John’s todmb is found there and this city is reowned for being virgin Mary’s city.
JACOBITE TRADITION
Ever since the 8th century, the Syrian Jacobite Church has continually upheld the Ephesian Tradition. The Jacobites reaffirmed their belief, which they still maintain, in the 12th and 13th centuries. In the 17th and 18th centuries, highly respectable historians studied the question once again and upheld, on all points, the opinions of historians. The learned Pope Benedict XIV immediately echoed it.
LOCAL TRADITION
About seven miles east of Ephesus lies the village of Kirkince, which was inhabited in 1892, by approximately 4000 Greek Orthodox Christians, last remaining descendants of the Ephesian Christians.Every year, on the 15th of August, these people came to a small chapel on Bulbul Dagı. This chapel was called by them Panaya Kapulu, a name partly Greek and partly Turkish meaning “Gate” or “ House of Our Lady”. They came to celebrate the assumption of Virgin Mary into heaven. This is a strong point, since the Greek Orthodox Church teaches that the Virgin Mary went to heaven from Jerusalem. This annual pilgrimage had been taking place from time immemorial. They declared that this tradition observance of Virgin Mary’s Assumption had been handed down from father to son.When it began is lost in the pages of history. All of this had been carefully checked by an inquiry commision in 1892.
There is a small, cross-shaped, domed church built at the end of the road leading from the cistern. This is the structure known as Mary's House. This structure dates from the 6th or 7th century, and was repaired to its present condition. There is a red line marking where the ancient wall stops and where the newer wall begins. Inside the entrance with door-shaped niches at either end, there is a vaulted platform area. There is a statue of Mary in the apse which has been there for centuries. There was a fireplace at the front where Gary marble separated it from the rest of the house. During excavations coal and house utensils were found dating to the 1st century AD.
This place has become a frequented destination for pilgrims since the image of Virgin Mary is venerated not only by Christians but also Moslems. A special mass is held each 15th August which attracts numerous visitors.
SELÇUK SULTANKÖY LOCOMOTIVE MUSEUM
This museum in which the old locomotives are exhibited is located at Sultanköy which is 11kms. to Selçuk. The samples of the train locomotives which had been used from the beginning of the 20th century to today are exhibited in this open-air museum.
ŞİRİNCE
Şirince lies in the 8km east of Selçuk in the midst of natural and historical beauties. The history of village dates back to the 5th century A.D. Once the village was called “Kırkınca” or “Çirkince” which means “ugly”.The previous name of the village is said to be "The Ephesus on the hill" as well. According to some historical sources when Aydınoğulları Principality took Selçuk, some of the town’s inhabitants fled to Şirince. The village is surrounded with grapevines, olive trees and peach orchards. Besides two churches, which were built in early 19th century, the classical Anatolian architectural properties are worth visiting. Şirince is a lovely village with its web like streets, two storied authentic houses, hardworking and hospitable people and special wine made at homes.

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